From March 25th to March 29th I was in Sarajevo. Damir, my friend from Moscow decided to celebrate his 50th birthday in his hometown. While some of close Damir’s friends are still in Sarajevo, many are due to the war scattered across the globe. His friends came from Moscow, London, Zagreb, Split, Canada, Australia and Kiev. Not to make his friends to come from far away for one evening only, it was decided to party for three days: “orientation night” started on Thursday, “rehearsal” was Friday and “50th gala” on Saturday. For three days we enjoyed excellent company, delicious food and - thanks to Damir's musical background - superb musicians catared to our musical wishes. Everyone had unforgettable time. When we parted on Sunday it was said this was such a great party that people who had not attended it, will say they have been there.
Last time I was in Sarajevo was sometime in 1986. I remember it as a city full of fun. Kind of Balkan “Dolce Vita”: very relaxing, time is passed talking to friends over turkish coffee, to make talk intersting one might have some rakija, later sing a song about love or (most likely) lack of it, had some delicious chevapchichi, than drink more and sing more. And so on…
I wondered how the city and its people healed after the war. I came back amazed. Some shots of Sarajevo are on http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PgGnXrWiJJPcAfSdbQAv3w?authkey=Gv1sRgCN_N8K6ZlvnP8AE&feat=directlink
Sarajevo developed as a city from a trading post. Where there is a trade there is usually open-mindedness. That’s why Sarajevo was a melting pot – Muslims, Croat, Serbs and other nations lived there peacefully together for many years. That is why it was so painfully surprising to see the brutality against the city and its citizens. I leave explanations on causes of the war to historians. The fact is that for months the city was heavily pounded by over 300 Serb cannons.
Last time I was in Sarajevo was sometime in 1986. I remember it as a city full of fun. Kind of Balkan “Dolce Vita”: very relaxing, time is passed talking to friends over turkish coffee, to make talk intersting one might have some rakija, later sing a song about love or (most likely) lack of it, had some delicious chevapchichi, than drink more and sing more. And so on…
I wondered how the city and its people healed after the war. I came back amazed. Some shots of Sarajevo are on http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PgGnXrWiJJPcAfSdbQAv3w?authkey=Gv1sRgCN_N8K6ZlvnP8AE&feat=directlink
Sarajevo developed as a city from a trading post. Where there is a trade there is usually open-mindedness. That’s why Sarajevo was a melting pot – Muslims, Croat, Serbs and other nations lived there peacefully together for many years. That is why it was so painfully surprising to see the brutality against the city and its citizens. I leave explanations on causes of the war to historians. The fact is that for months the city was heavily pounded by over 300 Serb cannons.
The city center is almost fully restored. On some buildings one can see grenade or bullet holes. But mostly buildings dating from Ottoman or Austro-Hungarian times are enjoying new colors. But that’s the city center. In the city outskirts buildings still wait for a makeover. Some scenes are surreal: a laundry drying from a window scared with bullet holes, satellite antenna positioned above grenade hole. Graveyards are between residential houses.
Everyone I met has an amazing survival story to tell. The shopkeeper whose husband died and she raised her two daughters herself. One dughter finished university one is studying.
A taxi driver "escaped" to the Netherlands (Breda) and there fell in love with a Bosnian girl. They came back. A beautician as an orphan emigrated to UK, finished school there, got UK citizenship, but due to crisis returned to Sarajevo two months ago.
Irrespective of past hardship the Balkan spirit of “dolce vita” is alive in Sarajevo.I lost voice singing “sevdalinke” (traditional Bosnian folk songs). My legs were tired from dancing. I wish I could stay longer. I would definitely come again. I am fortunate to have friends who can organize such an unforgettable celebration of life and friendship. Many, many thanks and I hope to welcome you in Kiev!
A taxi driver "escaped" to the Netherlands (Breda) and there fell in love with a Bosnian girl. They came back. A beautician as an orphan emigrated to UK, finished school there, got UK citizenship, but due to crisis returned to Sarajevo two months ago.
Irrespective of past hardship the Balkan spirit of “dolce vita” is alive in Sarajevo.I lost voice singing “sevdalinke” (traditional Bosnian folk songs). My legs were tired from dancing. I wish I could stay longer. I would definitely come again. I am fortunate to have friends who can organize such an unforgettable celebration of life and friendship. Many, many thanks and I hope to welcome you in Kiev!
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