Saturday, May 22, 2010

Travel moment 6 - Quio


Matava hires locals to transport its guests from the airport in Kadavu to the small harbour were one gets on a small boat. This time I was greeted by the driver called Quio. Also on a way to the harbour errands (shopping, checking mails etc) had to be done. Quio and I started conversation. I answered questions about my flights, if I am tired, where I am from, how long will I stay. I also asked Quio about him. He is married. Has two kids. Generates main income growing tarro, tomatoes and other vegetables at his local farm. He sells veggies to the local school and hospital. But says it's very hard to live from a farm. Therefore he also works as a military contractor. In transportation. He was in Lebanon, Kosovo and Iraq. He explains he built his house after Kosovo. His new car is bought after he has been to Iraq. In few weeks he goes to Afghanistan. He was very enthusiastic about it. He works in transportation. I am familiar Fijians are considered tough warriors. I know Fiji is poor country. Economy is weak. After the coup in 2006 foreign aid is restricted. Nevertheless I was surprised to talk to someone who wants to leave a beautiful island of Kadavu and work in Afghanistan doing dangerous transportation work.
I asked Quio - if he has a house and a car what he needs next. The answer was a boat. Makes sense. I wished him good luck. On a photo above Quio is next to his pick up.

Later I shared with Richard my conversation with Quio. Richard told me hiring Fijian mercenaries is a huge business. From some villages about 70% of young men left for Iraq or Afghanistan in recent years. Such outflow forced the government to restrict mercenary activity but men still leave.

Travel moment 5 - Airplane accident


Taking off from Nadi to Kandavu I saw a plane which crashed that morning.This was an NGO plane and fortunatly no one was hurt.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Travel moment 4 - KAL and Lal

I) KAL Nadi

Before checking for Kandavu with Pacific Sun I went to the KAL office. There a young man Villie - in charge of passenger's luggage told me he will manage my claim. I asked him what he has done so far. He looked confused. I asked him if he sent any inquiries to Incheon or CDG. He responded due to the time difference no email was sent. But he assured me he will attend to my luggage claim. He than informed that tomorrow he will need to attend a family funeral and some other guy will take over my claim. This was not at all reassuring. While Villie was talking bullshit I noticed photos at the office screen saver: winter and autumn landscape photos from different places in Europe. It felt absurd one travels to the other side of the planet to enjoy palms and white beaches, but ends up watching snow-caps of Alps and castles on Loire on a screensaver. The certain level of absurdity helped me to keep some detachment.

Returning back to my suitcase problem I asked Villie if he will send an email today. Following his confirmation I requested he copies me on any emails. Trying to say something positive he explained to me if KAL finds my suitcase they will send it via DHL. He was surprised when I told him I am flying to Kandavu (45 min flight from Nadi) and the resort I am going to is about 45 min by boat from the Kadavu airport. I asked him to check if there is DHL on Kadavu.

My next question was about compensation for not having a suitcase with me. This was 70 Fijian dollars or USD 20. Villie explained this is KAL policy. I requested a copy of recipt.

II) Lal

Feeling fully "compensated" with FJ$ 70 received by KAL as compensation for the missing suitcase I went to check in with Pacific Sun for a flight to Kadavu. I check in my hand luggage. In Dec last year when I travelled from Taveuni to Kandavu via Nadi PacSun forgot to load my luggage on the plane. The luggage arrived the next day thanks to Maggie. With this and the most recent experiance I asked the guy at the check-in to ensure my bag will be on the plane. I also shared with him the other airline mishandled my other suitcase. He ensured me my bag will be on the plane. He asked me where in Kadavu I will stay. "Oh, Matava. Give my regards to Maggie!". Everyone in Fiji knows Maggie.
Holding my Dutch passport his next question was if it is true smoking weed is legal in Holland. I confirmed. This prompted him to share with me that the best pot in Fiji is grown in Kadavu. He continued with compliments about Kadavu weed. He than asked when I am coming back from Kadavu to Nadi. I gave a date. "Oh, well. Perhaps when you are back we can roll some together. " All I could come up was "Ok. Thanks. I'll think about it". The name tag on the guy's shirt was "Lal". What a check-in!

Travel moment 3 - Nadi

Upon arrival to Incheon I went to the transfer desk to check about my suitcase. Info I got was that they can only inform me one hour before a flight to Nadi. I had three hours layover. I walked around the airport having fun with Korean folk performances.
On the boarding gate I checked about my suitcase. They informed me there is no record my suitcase is in Seoul. They promised to inform Paris I miss my luggage. I was somewhat irritated my suitcase is not on a plane with me - but what else can one do but to rationalize? My take at that moment was: there are three KAL flights to Nadi a week next being on Wednesday i.e by Wednesday I will have my suitcase at Kadavu. Not perfect but still OK.

In Nadi I went straight to the KAL office. I explained my suitcase is mishandled. The lady in the KAL office upon hearing my missing luggage story informed me the KAL staff is busy at the moment but if I wait about one hour someone will assist me.
I thanked her for response but explained after about 26 hours of flying I prefer a shower in the hotel to one hour waiting for KAL staff to be available. She picked up the phone. Good girl. Within few minutes a young man helped me to fill the claim for my missing suitcase.
I had to overnight in Nadi and asked the KAL ofice to call me at the hotel for the suitcase update i.e. if suitcase is found in Seoul or CDG. They said they will.

In Nadi was 30 degrees. I arrived there with more or less early spring clothes which felt uncomfortable in torpical climate. Thus after checking in the hotel I started to tick off things from my shopping list: flip flops, shorts, a swimsuit, some summer clothes, T-shirts etc.

After the shopping I went to the hotel room for a nap. This was around 5 pm. Next time I woke up was at 11. 30 in the evening. No one from KAL office called.

Travel moment 2 - Confusion at CDG

Once at the CDG I hurried to the transfer desk for CDG to Incheon flight. At the transfer desk I handed my e-ticket and asked for the boarding pass. The woman started to type. Looked few times at my eticket. Asked me for the e-ticket number as she could not find it on the print out. I showed her the eticket number. She finally had an "aha" moment. Told me the flight will be delayed tonight for 20 min. Handed me the boarding pass. I asked if she knew if my luggage is on the plane and gave her my tag. She did not look at the tag at all. Her response was she does not have accesses to luggage data but told me I should inquire at the gate.

At the gate desk I had to wait for some time as quite a number of passengers was obtaining the boarding passes. Once boarding passes were sorted I asked the attendant if she could check if my suitcase is on board. I handed her my boarding pass just received at the transfer desk and the luggage tag I got in Kiev. The young lady started to type. Looked at the screen. Raised eyebrows. Grasped. Than she asked me if I could give her my e-ticket. Now I was confused but I handed the ticket. Few moments later the young lady asked me which date I am supposed to fly. Flabbergasted I told her today and that the date is on the ticket. Than the young lady explained that my boarding pass - which about 30 min earlier I got at the transfer desk - is for the flight tomorrow. How could the woman at the transfer desk issue a boarding pass for the next day while telling me the plane tonight is 20 min late is beyond me. The helpful young lady started to sort the issue and book me on the flight. After some work she handed me the new boarding pass.

Concerned what else can go wrong now I insisted to know if my luggage is on the plane. At the desk gate next to the young lady was also a very helpful young man. Both of them tried to check for if my suitcase is on board but could not find it in the database. They advised me they might know if suitcase is on the plane only after the plane is fully boarded. They suggested I wait with the boarding until last moment to find out. So I sat on a chair next to the boarding gate desk and waited.
While two young french people at the gate desk were helpful, the Korean gate manager was - well - Korean. Rude, unsympathetic and in hurry. Sitting in the chair close to the gate intrigued the Korean gate manager. He asked me if I am to board the plane. Upon my affirmative response the Korean approached the gate desk and asked the young lady if there is a problem with me. She explained I wait a confirmation my luggage is on the plane. The moment she answered, the Korean manager turned to me and told me there is no time to wait. Either I board the plane or I stay to wait for the luggage.
I know well that reasoning with Korean men always fails as their listening skills - especially when a woman speaks - are heavily impaired. Nevertheless I tried to explain to the Korean why I want to check for my suitcase. We were on different frequencies. He mantra was: either you board or you stay.
Two young french people at the gate desk also tried to reason with the Korean. They tried to help and seemed frustrated by the Korean too. However the Korean remained unsympathetic.
When I finally decided to board the plane the young man at the gate desk told me he will do anything to get me the luggage. Ensured of that I thanked him and the young lady and boarded the plane.

Travel moment 1 - Dima Schumacher

After two and half weeks holidays I am back in Kiev since May 10th. Fiji was great again. Went to the same place and had fantastic time.
Here I want to share some travel moments.

While stranded in A'dam due to the volcano, I wondered if I would fly to Fiji. If I had not arrive from A'dam to Kiev on April 20th I would not be able to depart. In my gmail drafts folder there is an unsent email regretfully informing Richard and Adrian I am cancelling my visit. But I flew on Tuesday and email was not sent.
The three working days during that week were hectic. The colleague of ours had a
serious car accident and her condition was critical. This saddened all.
I started to fly on Apr 24th. The route was Kiev to CDG to Incheon to Nadi. On Sat morning I walked Igor in the rain. Later I packed.
As usual I made a packing list and put it in my travel folder. I always do that as it is easier to see if I have a charger or adaptor on the list than in a full suitcase. I went to the office for few hours to finalize some things.
By 3 pm I was ready to go. As arranged Dima came to drive me to the airport and take Igor to Julia. Igor was to waive me at the airport. My flight was at 17.45 The moment Dima rang at my door I was sorting coins in my wallet in the study. Dima took suitcases. I took Igor, his food and my purse.The traffic on Sat afternoon in any city is usually heavy. Kiev is not exception. It usually takes 45 min to drive from my flat to the airport. With heavy Saturday traffic it was certain it would takes us longer. But even with busy traffic - as my flight was at 17.45 - I was sure we had
enough time. I was relaxed. Igor was in my lap. While Igor watched through the window I went over things I did so far. Suddenly a question appeared. Where is my wallet? I checked my purse. It was not there. At that moment I recalled sorting of coins. I knew I left the wallet at home. I said to Dima we had to return to my place. Deeply embarrassed I explained why. We crossed the river and than
returned back to the city. Dima drove over 100 km/h on Kiev streets. Fortunately no cops stoped us. Or due to the speed we have not seen any cop. I quickly went to my flat to pick up the wallet. Than Dima transformed himself into Schumacher. Few times when Dima passed other cars I loudly grasped for air. Could not stop myself. Igor also moved from my lap to the floor with his head on my knee. I worried cops would stop us. That something will happen to the car. I also wondered if I would made on time to check in. Once we were at the Boryspol highway I glanced at the speedometer: 150 km/h. Dima parked the car at the airport at 16.55 hours. Boarding started at 16.15.
Dima went with me to the checking counter. I handed my old large suitcase. The ground attendant informed me she can only issue a boarding pass from Kiev to CDG. She ensured me the luggage is checked in all the way to Nadi. I saw the luggage tag with "short connection" red tag and "priority tag"wrapped and glued around the handle. I had my boarding pass to CDG with the luggage tag all the way to Nadi. I
thanked Dima profusely. Without him I would miss the flight. And my holidays.
I hurried to the security clearance and immigration. I was among last passengers to board the plane. With me I had my hand luggage full of electronics - netbook, camera, lenses, etc.
In my seat still felt stupid about the wallet incident. I was grateful to Dima for exceptional driving and for making to the airport. I felt lucky credit cards and money are with me and not at home. Although the drive to the airport was hectic now in plane I felt everything will be fine. I looked forward to diving in Matava.

Sulking Igor



On a day I packed my suitcase for Fiji Igor was very sad.